quintessential belltown cool (the coterie room, belltown)

I made a dinner reservation at The Coterie Room with some trepidation. This newest venture by chefs Brian McCracken and Dana Tough (also owners of Spur gastropub on the same block and Tavern Law in Capitol Hill) had opened in the Restaurant Zoe space a mere two months ago, and it was already receiving rave reviews. Yet, how many restaurants are truly praise worthy right from the start?

The Coterie Room: 2137 2nd Avenue

Located in the heart of Belltown at the corner of 2nd and Lenora, The Coterie Room is perfectly placed for its prime audience: young, professional urbanites who are looking for modern, refined dining experience. The simplicity of the dark wood furnishings matched with soaring, intricately detailed ceilings, large windows, and stunning chandelier create an impressive and sophisticated space. No picture captures the essence of this better than the one on its own website.

View of the dining room from the raised bar area.
(Photo from The Coterie Room website.)

At 8pm on a Saturday night, practically every table was filled and the energy (and noise) in the room was palpable. This isn't the spot for a quiet dinner, but it is the place to be for a quintessential Belltown experience. The room was filled with an attractive, younger crowd, many of whom were with friends in groups of 4 or more. I felt cool just walking into this place, and the restaurant staff were happy to pretend like I belonged. We were seated immediately and were promptly greeted by our server. He was clearly busy with many tables, but he checked in with us often and never seemed rushed when speaking with us or expertly describing each menu item we inquired about.

Given the emphasis on the specially crafted cocktails at both Spur and Tavern Law, I couldn't resist ordering one to begin the night. Our server eagerly engaged with me about my liquor and flavor preferences, and we decided upon the Pendennis Club. Although directly from the main menu and not custom created just for me, the combination of gin, apricot, lime, and bitters sounded, and tasted, delicious. Served straight up in a petite martini glass, this cocktail was reminiscent of a more complex and delicately flavored cosmo.

Pendennis Club cocktail.

Next, we ordered small plates of the foie gras torchon and marinated beets. The creamy foie gras was sliced into small rounds and served atop a warm, crispy toast. It was completed with a reduction of sherry vinegar and small heap of finely chopped chives. Altogether, it was a wonderful amalgam of textures (creamy and crispy) and flavors (sweet and acidic).

Small plate: Foie gras torchcon.

The marinated beets were served in a small bowl topped with baby arugula, cottage cheese, and roasted pistachios. I am not usually a fan of cottage cheese, but the combination was delightful. The bright acidity of the beets was softened by the creamy cottage cheese, and arugula and pistachios added depth of flavor to each bite. When I took a bite of the beets alone, they seemed a little too firm. However, combined in one bite with the other parts of the dish, this firmness was no longer bothersome and perhaps was even intentional to hold its own in each bite.

Small plate: Marinated beets with arugula, cottage cheese, and
roasted pistachios.

For entrées, we looked to our server for advice on choosing between the sablefish, scallops, and duck. Although all three sounded amazing, we opted for the sablefish and duck. The Alaskan sablefish was slow poached and served on top of a smooth parsnip purée, roasted brussels sprouts, and bacon vinaigrette. Sablefish, also referred to as black cod, is a delicious but oily type of fish and therefore often comes across as a heavier fish. However, the slow poaching of this cut of fish created a lighter texture that was still abundant in the flavor and moisture expected from sablefish. The whiteness of the poached fish on top of the silky smooth parsnip purée exuded an ethereal air in both appearance and flavor. These creamy elements were complemented by the delicious bits of bacon and small slices of the roasted brussels sprouts.

Main course: Alaskan sablefish with parsnip purée, brussels sprouts,
and bacon vinaigrette.

The duck leg confit was beautifully plated, with the pan seared duck leg resting on a bed of buttered farro and arugula. The duck was cooked to perfection, with a delightfully crisped outer skin and tender, succulent meat that fell apart with just a slight pull of the fork. Similar to the sablefish, the duck somehow escaped the typical heavy, greasy characteristics of this type of poultry but maintained its essential rich flavors and textures. The mission fig conserve enhanced the sweet and saltiness of the duck leg.

Main course: Duck leg confit with buttered farro, arugula, and
mission fig conserve.

We ended our meal with a housemade cranberry sorbet. The sorbet was bright and tangy, and almost sour when eaten alone. But the sorbet was served with a scoop of buttermilk whipped cream and sugary crumble that balanced the tartness of the cranberry flavor.

Dessert: Housemade cranberry sorbet.

How it fared: Quite simply, I was blown away by our experience at The Coterie Room. The food was seasoned and cooked perfectly, served beautifully, and each item on the plate was thoughtfully chosen to complement each other and create a cohesive flavor palate. I can't wait to return.

Shoes: Manolo Blahnik black patent leather heels with wingtip detailing and perforated trim.

Featured shoes: Manolo Blahnik black patent leather heels. The wingtip detailing and perforated trim provide a modern flair to this classic silhouette.