Thursday, March 1, 2012

a morning with anthropologist-turned-culinary-expert gail simmons (book larder, fremont)

Nope, that's not a typo. Culinary expert and Top Chef judge Gail Simmons studied anthropology and Spanish as an undergraduate at McGill University in Toronto, and she's darn proud of it. I had the chance to meet Simmons this morning at an event hosted by the Book Larder, the lovely community cookbook store in North Fremont, where she unapologetically explained how majoring in anthropology and Spanish has found its way into her life as a food expert -- all while preparing her own recipe for a savory cheese soufflé and promoting her new memoir, Talking with My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater. Many often chuckle as this morning's crowd did when she tells people about her undergraduate studies. But Spanish, she tells us, is the essential language of a kitchen. And anthropology? It's the study of humans and culture, and what's more central to our culture than food? She ended that topic with a big "nana, nana, boo boo, Mom," laughing as she explained how her mom also questioned her choice of study in her earlier days.
New memoir by Gail Simmons.
Simmons is just as entertaining in person as she is on Top Chef. She speaks with conviction (especially about eggs -- more on that later), is full of energy, and is actually rather funny. Confession: I secretly wanted to hug her and ask her to be my new best friend. Oh, and did I mention that she can cook?

For this morning's event, Simmons chose to make a savory cheese soufflé in honor of Carla's failed attempt during the finale of Top Chef Season 5. The conversation proceeded as you might expect -- a little discussion about the show and last night's finale, some explanation about what she was mixing.. until someone asked whether the kind of eggs used makes a difference in the recipe. And then we got to see a glimpse of how passionate Simmons is about her eggs. She likes her eggs free-range, organic, and vegetarian-fed (although, as one audience member pointed out, chickens are natural omnivores, Simmons would prefer to eat eggs from chickens who ate grains rather than possible entrails from cows or pigs). You know, happy chickens. And of course the chickens should be happy because clearly their eggs make her happy. She describes eggs as the "most versatile" and "magical" ingredient in cooking. Their use in the kitchen is practically limitless, and they can be transformed into so many different things, including the soufflé she was whipping up before our eyes (the overhead mirror is genius).
Adding egg yolks to the mixture.
In an earlier season of Top Chef, Simmons was served a disappointing egg dish and said something like, "There's nothing I hate more than poorly cooked eggs." It was so memorable for me, and I still quote her all the time when I'm served something unsavory. On the surface, the statement seems so curt and harsh. At the same time, there's a feeling of sadness that the dish (and the chef) disappointed her in a way that saying, "This dish is terrible!" wouldn't convey. And who would want to disappoint this adorable anthropologist / culinary expert?

By the way, her soufflé was amazing. Served hot out of the oven, it was light, fluffy, and full of flavor. You can find the recipe here.
The finished product.

1 comment:

  1. This post reminds me of my best friend Neil. I call her “Mother Neil” due to her magical skills in the kitchen. We used to have pajama parties in her house, where she would bake a cake and I would watch. What she said while whipping the egg whites struck me. She once said, “Eggs are essential in baking. It holds everything up.” You wrote the same thing in your post about Gail Simmons , and how she speaks with conviction about eggs. It is truly the cement that holds the castle of the cuisine together. Eggs are not only breakfast dishes, but also acts as binding and leavening agents. Lawrie Brinkerhoff

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