locavores in indianapolis (late harvest kitchen, indianapolis)

It just so happens that I am in Indianapolis visiting a best friend one week before Super Bowl XLVI, and the pre-game madness has already begun. Hotels are sold out, streets are closed, and 800 feet of zip lines have been erected over Super Bowl Village. Friday night was the official opening night of the Village drawing some 30,000 people to downtown Indianapolis, thus our plans to venture to the area for the first traveling-high-heeled-foodie action were quickly scrapped. Luckily for us, we had a backup restaurant in mind (which ironically was our top choice initially): Late Harvest Kitchen.

Late Harvest Kitchen: 8605 River Crossing

Late Harvest Kitchen, an upscale restaurant serving "seasonal American cuisine," is Ryan Nelson's first restaurant (former chef of Indy's Oceanaire Seafood Room). It opened just a few short months ago in the former Smith & Hawken space at The Shops at River Crossing, and as our server informed us, they pride themselves on their use of local, seasonal ingredients and low carbon impact. Yes, that's right. The locavore trend has made it's way to Indiana! (Where recycling is optional and costs extra, too. Hm..)

As we pulled into the parking lot, I was somewhat worried about its strip mall location (albeit a relatively fancy strip mall zone -- a Saks Fifth Avenue is across the street), but those feelings of apprehension were quickly forgotten as we walked into the restaurant. The hostess promptly greeted us and led us to our table -- a warm wood lacquered table set with simple silverware, glasses, and homey dishcloth striped napkins. The main dining room was abuzz with lively conversations, and nearly every table was full. I couldn't help but notice the significant number of middle-aged diners who filled the restaurant, but I suppose that's mostly an indication of the overpopulation of young professionals that I'm used to seeing in Seattle.

Table set for four.

We had a very talkative server who enthusiastically recommended the most "phenomenal" and "ahh-mazing" dishes in great detail, and we ended up ordering based on his recommendations. We began with what he claimed was becoming the restaurant's signature small plate, the brandade. Their version of this Provençal dish is prepared with salted cod steeped in milk, garlic, and olive oil. Once it's cooked down, the salted cod is removed and fresh shredded cod is added and baked until it's bubbling hot and browned on top. The abundance of finely shredded fish gave it a surprisingly light and fluffy consistency -- not runny or heavy like an artichoke dip. It was served with thick slices of toasted, house-made brioche. The first few pieces of brioche were slightly over-toasted and dry, but the brioche from our second serving (we ran out halfway through the dish) was much improved -- golden yellow and lightly toasted with a rich buttery, eggy flavor.

Small plate: Brandade with toasted brioche.

For our main course, we again took our server's advice and ordered the pork cheeks, pork chop, and side of Potatoes Minneapolis. The pork cheeks were braised in a style similar to ossobucco with a deep, meaty glaze. It's served atop a winter vegetable risotto and finished with a pinenut gremolata. The meat was extremely tender, and the risotto with roasted brussels sprouts was creamy and cooked just past al dente. As I made my way through the dish, I continued to find little surprises in the darkly colored sauce -- whole mushrooms, big slices of cooked green apples, and some small pieces of crunchy mystery topping (almost like potato chips!) scattered with the pinenuts.

Big plate: Pork cheeks with winter vegetable risotto
and pinenut gremolata.

Our second entrée was the Fischer Farms pork chop -- a thick slice of grass-fed, hormone-free pork that was brined, smoked, and then grilled. The pork chop was served with perfectly prepared butter beans (not too soft and not too firm), vinegar peppers, and a sweet bacon marmalade. The bacon marmalade and rich sauce combined with the grilled meat created an irresistibly complex sweet and smoky flavor. I only wish the food was plated more purposefully and the meat itself was a tad more tender, but both of these flaws were easily overlooked while enjoying the bold flavors of the dish.

Big plate: Fischer Farms pork chop with butter beans,
vinegar peppers, and bacon marmalade.

As if that wasn't enough food, we added a side of what our server referred to as "heart attack on a plate" -- Potatoes Minneapolis, a side dish adapted from the Oceanaire's dish of the same name. Essentially hashbrowns, it's an upside dome of shredded potatoes fried until crispy and golden brown. It's then topped with generous chunks of bacon lardons and a large dollop of sour cream. While this might have been one of the best preparations of hashbrowns I've tasted, I still don't understand the logic of hashbrowns with dinner (and I really don't understand why it originated at a seafood restaurant -- hashbrowns + fish seems like an odd combination).

Side dish: Potatoes Minneapolis.

We were already over-indulging with triple servings of pig, so why not finish our meal with some "diabetes in a cup" (phrasing is again courtesy of our server)? The sticky toffee pudding was described as essentially a bread pudding with dates and figs covered in a hot caramel sauce and whipped cream. I would say this was not a very accurate description. The bread itself was fluffier than a bread pudding pudding and more reminiscent of a spice cake, and the hot caramel was unanimously declared by the two of us as hot Werther's sauce (and we are both Werther's-loving experts). Regardless, the dessert was decadent and delicious (even if a little too sweet) and a nice end to the meal.

Dessert: Sticky toffee pudding.

hhf says: Don't be fooled by its strip mall location -- Late Harvest Kitchen serves excellent, contemporary food with complex flavors, highlighting local and seasonal ingredients. If you're ever traveling through Indianapolis, you'll definitely want to stop by. (It's also a great place to go if you're avoiding the Super Bowl crowds this week.)

Prada peep-toe heels in cream patent leather with black piping.

Shoes: Squared, peep-toe heels in cream patent leather with black piping by Prada. A classically stylish color combination with a modern silhouette.